Semi firm in its youth and fantastically fudgy once it ages, Petit Héletar is a singularly delicious study in texture. The rind of this goat milk cheese is wrinkled and a bit brainy. The creamline is a golden band that softens over time but doesn't turn to goo. The ivory paste retains the youthful essence of the cheese, with the aroma of salted butter. All of these together combine for a little wheel with big flavor: its sweet, herbaceous qualities bring to mind a dewy meadow, while the more umami notes are like a delicate porcini broth.